Things I forgot to mention: Row Pinto

Row Pinto is one of my favourite stalls in Greenwich market - besides all the ones that sell food of course! The most beautiful handmade scarves, hats and gloves made from the softest British yarn. I almost bought that navy and red striped number in the back but chickened out when I realized that it meant not having cab fare to get our butts to the airport...I might just have to order it online when I'm a working woman again!


Things I forgot to mention: Rosa Del Raval

The BEST Mexican food I've had outside of Mexico. We enjoyed salty margheritas and paprika pork and pineapple tacos at this happening Barcelona eatery. I'm hoping to recreate that recipe when I have a kitchen again!


Back home and feeling nostalgic

Montreal - home sweet home. I was so upset when the plane took off from Heathrow but as soon as I heard that wonderful French Canadian accent greet us at customs, I was happy to be back in Montreal. It helps that it's 14 degrees, sunny, and the snow has gone. Mike's parents picked us up at the airport and brought us back to theirs for some tea and trip talk. I was given some belated birthday gifts including the Spain: On The Road Again cookbook!!! I sat up in bed this morning (or was it night, I don't know anymore), reading about all of these wonderful places we visited and the delicious food we ate. I love cookbooks that read like a novel and this one is full of anecdotes, colourful pictures and easy recipes. I miss Spain and being on the road but man oh man am I ever happy to see Mike's family and to return to this great city. On a more superficial level, I am happy to have access to a laundry machine and an appointment at the hairdresser's on Friday.


Good news and sad news

So the sad news first: We are flying back to Montreal on Tuesday morning. The last 3 months of our lives have been the absolute greatest. We have seen, tasted, savored so many beautiful things and, more importantly, shared some spectacular experiences together. I don't even know how to describe how I'm feeling at the moment. I thought it would be a lot harder to return home after being on the road for so long but, to be honest, we're actually looking forward to it. One of the best things to come out of this trip is the sense of excitement we feel about our future together. We are going back to unemployment, no apartment and no money and that is totally ok. We will be ok. We are so committed and motivated about making a new life for ourselves. It's like life is giving us a big high five and a kick in the butt.

The good news is....our traveling days are not completely behind us just yet! We are going to be in Montreal for 5 days (expect a few posts from the homeland) then flying off to British Columbia for 3 weeks! Yes, we are procrastinating on the whole "getting back to reality thing." Just for a little while longer! We bought the tickets on the morning of our departure for Europe. There was a seat sale and we knew that we would probably not have a chance to take 3 weeks off once we started working again, so we jumped on the opportunity. We have friends and family there, including Rob and Hil who moved there in the Fall, and we are dying to pay them a visit! I was actually born in Victoria but we moved when I was still a baby and I have never been back since. I'm really looking forward to exploring Canada's West Coast and I hope you'll tag along for the ride! That's right, LJ Away continues!

I wish I could send a thank you card to each and every one of you who followed this adventure. I have read every single comment and email, sometimes three times over. You often reminded us of how lucky we were and to savor every single second. To be honest, it wasn't always easy to find the motivation to write a post or to get a decent internet connection but I am so happy I decided to take Lake Jane on the road. I loved sharing this experience with all of you - whoever and where ever you might be. I hope you'll follow Lake Jane's BC getaway and in the future (cue the Star Trek theme song...) .
Signing out from the UK, Marie-Eve xoxo

Curry for breakfast

Well here we are, back in London. More specifically in Deptford, an up and coming area on the outskirts of Greenwich, where Mike's friend Ian lives. A few years ago, we crashed on his couch for a couple of weeks while traveling through the UK and it's great to be back. Mike and Ian met over 12 years ago while attending an international high school in Singapore. They've always kept in touch and Ian has always opened his door to us when we're in town.

I am very happy to know someone who lives near Greenwich because it's one of my absolute favorite places to visit in London. It's especially wonderful on a sunny Saturday. You can explore the market, hang out on at one of the many happening pubs (I love The Coach and Horses, The Duke, The Greenwich Union and The Gypsy Moth), sit on the lawn of the Laban, go for a walk along the water or set your watch to Greenwich Mean Time. Ian's sister-in-law sells handmade jewelery in the market so we went to check out her stall and grab some late lunch from one of the food kiosks. I went for the red Thai curry while Mike had a plate of pierogis that could have fed a small village.

If ever you're in the area, check out The Royal Albert and The Amersham Arms in New Cross; two VERY cool pubs with awesome food (order the Club Sandwich at The Royal Albert. You're welcome) and some of the hippest people on this side of the Thames. Does using the term "hip people" make me sound old...?

The little moments

Mike has been the absolute BEST travel companion! For example, he waited for me every time I stopped to take a picture (which was about every 4 steps of so); he made up little songs with me to pass the time on the long train and bus rides; he thought and talked about food as much as I did; he lent me his clean socks when all of mine were dirty; he let me control the maps (oh how I love maps); he was happy and grateful for every day of this adventure; he shot secret footage of some of the more subtly beautiful moments of our trip and made this gorgeous short video for me.



Music by Arch M – “Bedrm Band at Caf NVA"

I'm so Aix-cited and I just can't hide it.

My parents, the hubby and I drove to Aix-en-Provence yesterday, about one hour east of Arles. As a child Mike had spent a lot of time in Aix because family friends' of his had a home there, and I had read about it in my Art History courses because Aix is where Cézanne spent a good part of his life.

I was particularly excited when Mike told me that the family friend, a lovely man named Fortuné, had a home overlooking La Sainte-Victoire, the famous Provence mountain that Cézanne painted countless times. Before meeting up with Fortuné we explored the city of Aix on foot and I found it quite posh. The shopping was surprisingly fantastic, the gourmet food shops were exceptional and the terraces were full of fashionable people sipping café au lait. There's lots to see in Aix and one short morning was far from enough time to take it all in. Fortuné had made us a typical Provence lunch with olive and lavender tapenade, walnut salad, ratatouille, boulettes provencales, local cheeses and the most divine peach and apple tart. We wobbled our way up the street to catch a breathtaking view of the mountain, from the very spot where Cézanne used to paint! Fortuné then drove us into the countryside, winding our way through vineyards and tiny stone villages. Provence is just lovely - albeit freezing at this time of year! I believe its actually warmer in Canada at the moment (blurgh!)

We leave France tomorrow morning and are heading back to our home away from home, London. We're spending a long weekend there until - OMG - we fly back to Montreal! I have yet to wrap my mind around that so I'll write a more elaborate post about my thoughts on the matter when we arrive in London. Aurevoir les amis ! ox

La Camargue

The sun has returned here in Provence! It's frigid outside but the snow is melting and we can access the main roads again. We decided it was time to explore our region and our first stop was La Camargue, a spectacular nature reserve in the south west of Provence. It's known for its wild landscapes, salt and cowboys. We drove all the way to the sea, stopping in Aigues Mortes for lunch. I had Entrecôte de Toro or bull steak, a local speciality, with fench fries and Languedoc-Roussillon wine.

We continued exploring the savage wilderness of La Camargue and came across wild horses, flamingos (!!), bulls and one mule. No cowboys although we did see their famous thatched roof houses which are rounded at one end to cut the severity of Le Mistral, aka the INSANE Provence wind. The wild horses were grazing in the windiest of marshlands, their white hair blowing in the wind. I was reminded of 80's music videos.

Our house in the middle of Arles

My parents rented the most phenomenal townhouse in the Rochette neighbourhood of Arles. It's absolutely ancient. Like most townhouses in Arles, it retains its original stone walls, colourful wooden shutters and tiled floors throughout. It has 4 stories plus a rooftop terrace, all of which can be reached via a central spiral staircase. I get pretty dizzy when I walk down to the kitchen in the morning…

Arles

I arrived in Arles on Saturday morning wearing ballet flats and a light jacket. It was so sunny that we even enjoyed a glass of wine of the rooftop. Flash forward to sunday morning and there's 10cm of snow on the ground. So let's recap - Mike and I were in England when they had one of the biggest snowfalls in the last century; Mike and I were in Spain when there was record rainfalls and mass flooding; Mike and I were in the South of France and there's a massive snowstorm, in March. WHAT IS GOING ON HERE?!? Do we have some sort of super energy that affects weather?! Is it the Canadian factor!?

Anyways, now we're in a beautiful Roman town in Provence and we're colder than we were in the North of England in December…it is absolutely gorgeous here but I would love to see it when it's not covered in a blanket of snow and ice. We spent Monday exploring Arles and its Roman ruins including the massive amphitheatre and the café where Van Gogh painted his famous Café Terrace. It's nice to spend some time with the folks and share our travel stories with them.

Des baisers de France

Bonjour les amis !

We arrived in sunny Carcassonne on Friday afternoon after the most incredible train ride from Barcelona. The coast line was absolutely breathtaking! We spent the day exploring the medieval walled city and eating lots and lots of french food - Croque Madame, gallettes, crêpes au chocolat, cassoulet au canard confit and crême caramel. I have a feeling Mike and I will have to be rolled back to England...

Now we're in Arles with my parents who rented a 200 year old Roman townhouse by the river. It's so nice to see familiar faces despite the fact that it's SNOWING here!!

Hope you're enjoying your weekend! ox

Adios Espana

It is with TREMENDOUS sadness that I write my last post from Spain. After one month in this beautiful country, Mike and I are moving on to France. We're actually heading to Carcassonne for one night then meeting up with my parents in Provence! They've rented a villa in Arles and we'll spend one week exploring the region with them. I cannot wait to see my folks but I am absolutely heartbroken to leave Spain. It has been one of the most incredible months of our lives and I feel like we've only scratched the surface. Thank you so much for following our little adventure. I have so enjoyed reading your comments and taking you up on your suggestions! I'm planning on blogging from Provence but I have no idea what the internet situation will be like. Hopefully I'll be in touch very soon! À bientôt ! oxox

My face in a subway station

And now for a reminder of my real life back home...

A few months ago I did a quick photo shoot for a cell phone company (it will remain nameless because I don't want to give away the whole campaign). They had "everyday people" come in and pose like superheros. No makeup, no hair people (drat!). Just me and the very nice photographer. It was a great experience and everyone there was lovely. I didn't think much of it until I found out that I was in fact selected and that my picture would appear on billboards and bus shelters, etc in 2010. It's one thing to imagine what this will be like but a whole other thing to actually receive a mobile phone image that a friend took in a Montreal subway station today...That's my face! In a subway station! It's gigantic!

Thank goodness I'm on another continent right now because I blush at the mere site of this picture. I'm not prepared to face the real life version yet...

Technicolor ice formations

I had read a ton on La Sagrada Familia back in my university days but nothing could have prepared me for the real thing. It is one of the strangest/most interesting places I've ever visited. Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia has been under construction since 1882 and is not expected to be completed until 2030!! The artist spent the last 12 years of his life working exclusively on this massive church in order to ensure that his vision would be brought to life before his death.

At present, it's a very busy construction site, both inside and outside, and the scale of it is hard to grasp. The main entrance is mostly finished but the inside is still completely unfinished. You can walk around the perimeter but the middle of the church is filled with men at work with little white hard hats. They are pouring concrete, welding metal poles and finishing pain staking details. The grey concrete pillars and exisiting stained glass make the place feel like some sort of technicolor ice cavern. I kept trying to understand how Gaudi could have envisioned something like this. It's not like he had another technicolor ice cavern to draw inspiration from!

I hope I can come back in 20 years to see what the finished church will look like...

Gracias Gwyneth

Let's go back in time a little bit. Specifically back to August 10th 2009. Mike and I were on a plane heading to San Francisco and I was going through an entire season of Gwyneth Paltrow and Mario Batali's travel show Spain On The Road Again (it was a long flight). Prior to watching this show, Spain was not that high on my list of places to visit. Don't get me wrong, it certainly appealed to me but I didn't know that much about everything it had to offer. However, all that changed after watching Spain On The Road Again. I'm actually not a big Gwyneth Paltrow fan but the show was brilliantly shot and Mario Batali's enthusiasm for Spain and its culnary offerings got me completely hooked. There was one episode in particular that made me exclaim to Mike "we're going to Spain" and that was the episode where Gwynnie, Mario Batali and Michael Stipe (I know, random) eat at an "authentic" tapas bar in downtown Barcelona. That bar is Inopia and it's owned by Ferran Adria's brother, Albert Adria, who once worked as El Bulli's pastry chef. The atmosphere and the food were so interesting and unpretentious and I thought Mike and I would love it all. Little did I know that I would be sitting in that very tapas bar less than 7 months later staring at a picture of Gwyneth Paltrow, Mario Batalli and Michael Stype on the wall by our table. Life is funny.

Inopia is one of the more happening tapas bars in Barcelona but you wouldn't know it by the small inviting space, blackboard walls and charming staff. Although there is a red rope on the outside, it's mostly there to control the line up that inevitably builds up outside on most nights. We loved waiting outside with our glass of wine, watching locals stream in and hug the owner. By the time we got out table, I was starving and unable to make a choice about what to eat so we ordered all the specialties including patatas bravas, marinated chicken skewers, ham croquettes and grilled cheese with honey. Everything was delectable and affordable. The atmosphere is lively, especially after 10pm, and you can tell that Inopia is something special. The celebrities who have eaten here share in our sentiment because they're autographed the tiles that adorn the walls including - to our surprise - Les Cowboys Fringants, a famous Quebec band.


We loved our meal so much that we might return tonight...

Parc Guell

After seeing so many symetrically inlaid tiles throughout Morocco and Andalucia, it was so shocking to visit Gaudi's Parc Guell - and I mean that in the most positive of ways. In no way am I comparing the two styles because you honestly can't compare Gaudi to anything or anyone. He really was this mad creative genius and Parc Guell is one of the most beautiful examples of this. The shattered tile mosaics adorn nearly every man-made surface in this lush green park. There are no right angles to be found and every rounded shape seems to play up nature's curves. I started to photograph every single tile design I laid eyes on until I realized I had taken nearly 100 pictures of tiles and it was time to put the camera down. Sometimes you just have to believe that your mind will somehow capture every little detail and take it all in.

Oh Barcelona

Anyone who has been lucky enough to visit Barcelona before will probably agree with me when I say that it's impossible to describe this city with words alone. You have to experience the sites, sounds and smells of this city in order to grasp its magic. I can tell you that it has now climbed to the top of my list of favorite cities in the world and that's only after spending 48 hours here! The urban regeneration that followed the 1992 Olympics lead to the complete overhaul of Barcelona but many argue that it fell victim to its own success; losing much of the elements that made it so distinct. I was a bit weary of this before we arrived, especially after spending time in Madrid which I found to be quite authentic, but I think it's safe to say that Barcelona is transforming itself once again into one heck of a hip city. The superb architecture, nightlife, shopping and food scene are some of the best I've ever seen/sampled. Add to that an important Catalan heritage and you have one very unique and creative city. I feel like there's a surprise waiting for us around every corner, whether it be some insane building or a graffiti mural or an ancient church.

Luckily, we got a second wind when we arrived on Monday and have not stopped walking around. Some of our favorite activities so far included the Picasso Museum, the Mercado de Santa Caterina, Parc Guell (INCREDIBLE!!!!), shopping in El Born, Barceloneta beach, checking out the port at night, admiring the architecture on every single street, and seeing Gaudi's famed buildings in person.


We still have so much to see and do here and it kind of feels like a race against time. Tomorrow we plan on finally seeing La Sagrada Familia as well as the Mies Van Der Rohe Pavillion.

La Bocqueria

If you're a regular reader of this blog you are most likely aware of my slight obsession with food markets. I feel my heart rate elevate the second I set foot in one and completely realize that this is abnormal. Having said that, it is with tremendous excitement that I write this post on Barcelona's La Boqueria Market. Unlike London's Borough Market which primarily sells ready made food, La Boqueria is mainly a food market with a few eat-the-counter tapas style kiosks. It has everything from chocolate and fruit stalls to butchers and fish mongers. I was mostly fascinated by the sea food vendors who sold everything from lobster to snails.

We had breakfast/lunch at Bar Pinotxo, one of the most famous food counters at La Boqueria. The owner, a local celebrity in his own right, served us one of the specials of the day, Chipirones con habas, which are tiny little squids with white beans, garlic and fresh herds. Outstanding.

For desert, we picked up some fresh fruit from one of the many fruit vendors. We walked to Barceloneta beach and ate our market goods in the sun.

We have a winner!

A big congratulations to Lisa Maria Mattiazzi who has won 10 custom mini correspondence cards courtesy of Meg Paperie! Meg will be mailing your custom cards very soon. Lucky girl!

Thanks to everyone who entered!

Barcelona by night

First impressions of Barcelona? Wow wow wow wow wow. Wow.

We arrived at our hotel (Market Hotel Barcelona - definitely check it out) around 5pm and immediately set out to explore the neighbourhood. That turned into a long trek down La Rambla, Barcelona's main (touristic) artery. The vendors were selling everything from pet birds to porn mags. Great for people watching. It's nice to see it at sunset because all of the surrounding buildings are so beautifully lit.

We made it all the way down to the port where the architecture already has me filling up my camera's memory card. Here are the first few snaps from Barcelona.


I'm so excited and I just can't hide it!!

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